If you are anything like me, the moment you touch a skein of jumbo sherpa yarn, you immediately start dreaming of the softest, most huggable stuffed animals possible. There is something so special about creating a toy that doesn’t just look store-bought but feels even better because of the love put into every stitch.
Today, I’m sharing a pattern for a Fleece Teddy and Bunny. These are substantial, cuddly friends—standing about 18 inches tall—perfect for nurseries or a very lucky toddler. Because the jumbo fleece yarn hides stitches so well, these look like high-quality plushies where the crochet work is almost invisible!
What You’ll Need
- Yarn:Go For Faux Fleece Sherpa (Level 7 Jumbo).
- For the Bear: 2 skeins in “Honey.”
- For the Bunny: 3 skeins in “Cream.”
- Nose Yarn: A small amount of worsted weight (Level 4) yarn. (I used Cocoa for the bear and a soft Mushroom purple for the bunny).
- Hook: 6.50 mm (I love my Clover Amour for this).
- Notions: 18 mm safety eyes, large plastic yarn needle (must be big enough for jumbo yarn!), fiberfill, and lock ring stitch markers.
My Tips for Working with Fleece
Working with jumbo fleece yarn is a tactile experience. You can’t really “see” your stitches, which is both a blessing and a challenge.
- Feel, Don’t Look: You’ll need to feel for the “gaps” between stitches with your fingers. The good news? Mistakes are totally hidden by the fluff!
- Stitch Markers are Essential: I mark the end of every single round. If I have 42 stitches to do, I know I should hit the halfway point at 21 stitches. If I’m way off, I pull it back to the marker and try again.
- Tally Your Rounds: You won’t be able to count your rows just by looking at the finished piece, so keep a notepad or phone app nearby to check off each round as you finish it.
- Magic Ring Trick: Keep your initial loop small. If it’s too big, this thick yarn is very hard to pull tight.
The Pattern
Before you start: Cut two long strands of the fleece yarn (at least 37”/94 cm) and set them aside. We will use these for “eye indentation” later to give the face that professional, deep-set look.
The Head
- R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
- R2: Inc 6 times. (12)
- R3: Sc 1, inc 6 times. (18)
- R4: Sc 2, inc 6 times. (24)
- R5: Sc 3, inc 6 times. (30)
- R6: Sc 4, inc 6 times. (36)
- R7: Sc 5, inc 6 times. (42)
- R8-14: Sc 42.
- R15: Sc 5, dec 6 times. (36)
- R16: Sc 4, dec 6 times. (30)
- R17: Sc 3, dec 6 times. (24)
- R18: Sc 2, dec 6 times. (18)
Face Placement & Indentation: Place the 18 mm safety eyes about 1.75” from the bottom of the head, roughly 3.75” apart. Do not snap the washers on yet.
With the eyes in place, use your worsted yarn to embroider a triangular nose (1” wide x 0.75” tall) with a small 0.5” vertical line coming down from the point. Position the top of the nose at the midline of the eyes.
The “Pro” Look: Tie one of your reserved 37” strands around the post of the left eye and the other around the right eye. Snap the washers on. Cross the strands inside the head and pull them out the back of the head (near each other, but not in the same hole). Stuff the head firmly.
- R19: Sc 1, dec 6 times. (12)
- R20: Dec 6 times. (6)
- Fasten off and weave in the end.
Finish Indentation: Grab the two strands for the left eye at the back of the head. Pull them tight until the eye sinks into the face for a cute, expressive look. Double knot to secure. Repeat for the right eye and hide the ends.
Sculpting the Faces
Bear Head Shaping: Cut a 35” strand of yarn. Thread it from the bottom of the head, up to a point 1.5” above the nose, across about 2”, and back down. Pull tight to “pinch” the muzzle and create a snout. Knot and hide ends.
Bunny Head Shaping:
- Snout: Use two 35” strands. Thread through the head to pull the muzzle area forward (similar to the bear, but focusing on protruding the snout).
- Ear Indentation: Cut two 35” strands. Thread them diagonally about 4” above the eyes. Pull tight to create “dents” where the ears will sit—this also makes the cheeks pop out!
Ears
Bear (Make 2):
- R1: 6 sc in MR.
- R2: Inc around. (12)
- R3-4: Sc 12.
- Flatten and sew to the head about 4” apart.
Bunny (Make 2):
- R1: 8 sc in MR.
- R2: Inc around. (16)
- R3-14: Sc 16.
- R15: Sc 2, dec 4 times. (12)
- R16-22: Sc 12.
- R23: Sc 1, dec 4 times. (8)
- R24-25: Sc 8.
- Do not stuff. Sew these into the “dents” you made on the head so they flop down sweetly.
Legs & Body
Legs (Make 2):
- R1: 6 sc in MR.
- R2: Sc 2, inc twice. (8)
- R3: Sc 8.
- R4: Sc 3, inc twice. (10)
- R5-7: Sc 10.
- R8: Sc 4, inc twice. (12)
- R9-16: Sc 12.
- Leg 1: Fasten off with a long tail.
- Leg 2: Do not cut yarn. Chain 1, join to Leg 1 with a slip stitch. Repeat a slip stitch/chain join across 3 stitches to connect them.
Body (Continues from legs):
- R1: Sc 24 (around the perimeter of both legs).
- R2: Sc 3, inc 6 times. (30)
- R3-7: Sc 30.
- Stop and use the tail from Leg 1 to sew the gap between the legs shut.
- R8: Sc 3, dec 6 times. (24)
- R9: Sc 24.
- R10: Sc 2, dec 6 times. (18)
- R11: Sc 18.
- R12: Sc 7, dec 2 times. (16)
- R13: Sc 16.
- Fasten off, leave a long tail. Stuff the body and sew it to the head.
The Finishing Touches
Arms (Make 2):
- R1: 6 sc in MR.
- R2: Sc 2, inc twice. (8)
- R3-10: Sc 8.
- R11: Sc 2, dec 2 times. (6)
- R12: Sc 6.
- No stuffing needed. Sew to the sides of the body.
Tail (Optional):
- R1: 6 sc in MR.
- R2: Sc 2, inc twice. (8)
- R3: Sc 2, dec twice. (6)
- Sew to the lower back.
Foot Shaping: To give them that “sitting” look, take a 20″ strand of yarn. Enter the back of the leg (top), come out the front (middle), go back in and out near the bottom to create a “hinge.” Pull tight so the foot bends forward, tie a knot, and hide the yarn. It makes the world of difference!
I honestly can’t get over how soft these are. Using a Level 7 yarn was a new adventure for me, but the result is so rewarding. Whether you choose the honey bear or the cream bunny with those sweet floppy ears, I hope you love making these as much as I did!